Europe

Staying at the Hotel Jagdschloss Kranichstein

Staying at the Hotel Jagdschloss Kranichstein

Yeah, that’s a mouthful for a hotel name. We stayed at the Hotel Jagschloss Kranichstein for just a night on our way to Cochem because we thought it would be fun to stay in a four star hotel with some serious history. It turns out that it was kind of anti-climactic, in that we were expecting “rustic,” and what we got was well maintained and modern on the inside, and historic on the outside. Rustic was nowhere to be found.

The rooms were as modern as it gets with the exception of air conditioning. There was none, but there wasn’t any real need for it either. Keep in mind that we’re at 47 degrees north latitude, or the equivalent of a bit north of Seattle, so air conditioning even in August isn’t a priority. The windows being open in the evening were adequate for comfort. There’s even WIFI in the building. Speed tests showed about 5 MB/s up and down, so no problems there.

There was a well-appointed “Bistro”, which looked to us like a combination bar and morning breakfast area, and in fact that’s how it was used. And there is a restaurant on the property. We didn’t try the restaurant because there was a private event in progress the night we stayed. Instead, we went for a walk in the forest.

Near the town of Darmstadt, this building was constructed in or around 1580 By Georg I of Hesse-Darmstadt Landgrave. The idea then was to build a hunting lodge, or castle among the forests of the area, and it remained a hunting lodge through the centuries. It gradually changed purposes until it finally emerged as a premier location for the elite to vacation and unwind. Queen Victoria was known to visit here in the mid-19th century.

Today, it’s a four star hotel that houses travelers from around the world as well as hosting weddings, meetings, small conventions of all sorts. It’s still among the forests and we found a walk in the woods was quite inviting. There is a large pond (about three acres) in the immediate back of the hotel grounds and the forest is crisscrossed with hiking and biking trails. The landscape, to us, looks very much like Tennessee, but without the humidity.

The question now is, how can we find more excuses to stay in this great hotel in the future?

Posted by Donald Fink and Bonnie Fink in Blog, Europe, Hotels, Travel, 0 comments
Gibraltar for a Day

Gibraltar for a Day

Not long ago, we visited the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar for a day. As many of you will know, Gibraltar is located at the entrance to the Mediterranean Sea from the Atlantic, along the north shore. To its immediate north is Spain, and across the channel to the south is Morocco, and Africa. Continue reading →

Posted by Donald Fink and Bonnie Fink in Blog, Cruising, Europe, Travel, 0 comments
Gibraltar – A Brief History

Gibraltar – A Brief History

The Early History

Gibraltar has a long and colorful history. The earliest evidence of habitation comes from two Neanderthal skulls that have been located in the area that are thought to date back around 50,000 years. Other evidence in the form of potshards, stone tools, and so on have been found inside the caves beneath the rock, suggesting that the area has been inhabited more or less for quite some time.

The Romans revered Gibraltar, believing it represented one of the Two Pillars of Hercules. They called it Mons Calpe, or the Hollow Mountain. It was regarded as the northern mountain of the Two Pillars. The southern pillar is thought to be in northern Africa, but its exact location has been the subject of debate for quite some time.

There’s a story in Roman history that talks about Hercules making a journey to the garden of Hesperides on the island of Erytheia as part of his “twelve labors.” In his way was the mountain of Atlas. Using his super-human abilities, rather than going around Atlas or climbing over, he simply smashed his way through, and in doing so, connected the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic ocean.

In more recent times, and times of actual documented history, Gibraltar has been one of the most heavily fortified and coveted strategic locations in European history. Some of the earliest documentation of Gibraltar is with the Phoenicians in 950 BC.

In more recent history, ownership of the rock has been disputed between Spain and the United Kingdom, and in fact still is a subject of contention between the two countries. Truthfully, exactly who claimed ownership of Gibraltar at any particular time is hard to follow if you’re not a serious student of European history. It bounced around from the Moors, Spain, the Moors again, then back to Spain, and finally ceded to the British in 1713, where, even though it’s been under siege 14 times in the last 500 years, has remained an Overseas territory of the United Kingdom.

World War II

Gibraltar was a significant place during World War II. It was used as a stopping off point for more than 500,000 American troops on their way to Africa, Italy, and other destinations. It was used as an organizational point for more than 189 trans-Atlantic convoys involving more than 11,000 ships, and was used as a stopping point for Allied ship traveling from Great Britain south to Sierra Leone.

Spain was initially neutral in the war, but after the invasion of France in June of 1940, switched to a position of “non-belligerence.” What that meant in this case is that Italian and German forces operated on Spanish soil, but without the direct help of the Spanish. It seems that after the recent civil war in Spain, much of their ability to feed themselves had been destroyed and they were getting most of their grains from America. It wouldn’t have taken much of a rocket scientist to know that declaring war on the Allies would have been a bad choice. Still, allowing the Germans and Italians to operate on their soil didn’t seem to be too bright either. Probably a rock and a hard place kind of thing.

Several attacks were carried out against Gibraltar with German, Italian, and Vichy French aircraft, but very little damage occurred. Italy used “human torpedoes” launched from ships, and divers from the shores of Spain to carry out raids on ships in the harbor. They actually managed to sink one merchant ship during the course of war.

Over thirty miles of tunnels were dug inside Gibraltar, adding to the already substantial fortification of the mountain. The debris from the tunnels was used to enlarge the landing field out into the harbor to enable heavily laden bombers to operate on their way in and out of Africa. This was important to Operation Torch, which commenced on November 8, 1942.

A large hospital was established inside the caves at St. Michael’s Cavern in anticipation of heavy casualties from Africa, but was never used. Today it’s a site of various cultural events including concerts.

An interesting thing occurred during World War II. It seems that the British were concerned about the safety of the civilian population of Gibraltar, so they evacuated most of the population. 10,000 people went to London, and a smattering of folks ended up in Madeira and Jamaica. The reason for the evacuations was actually two-fold. First there was the concern for the civilian safety, but there was also the anticipation that Gibraltar would need room for the many thousands of military personnel that would be there in preparation for Operation Torch.

We find it somewhat ironic that Gibraltar experienced relatively little damage from the war while Hitler’s Blitz attack on London was one of the most intense campaigns of the entire war. Over 20,000 civilians died in London and nearly 1 million homes were destroyed or damaged. Beginning on September 7th, 1940, London was bombed 56 out of the 57 days and nights that followed.

Modern Day Gibraltar

After the War, Gibraltar has become less important in a strategic military sense. As a result, most of the military presence has been replaced by local Gibraltar forces, and the money that’s usually associated with a heavy military presence has gone away. The airport, for example, is still technically still a Royal Air Force base, but no military aircraft are permanently stationed there. Instead, it is used by both Gibraltar and Spain to bring in the nearly 10 million tourists that visit the area annually.

As the military presence receded, the territorial government started shifting their emphasis towards tourism and finance as their principal industries. They improved or built new passenger terminals to welcome cruise ships, established marinas, and improved pedestrian shopping areas. They also encouraged financial services, now boasting one bank for every 1,700 people in the territory, and allowed gambling and duty-free shopping.

Today, Gibraltar is considered to be the second most affluent community in the European Union. It ranks 18th in the world in terms of gross domestic product per capita.

There still seems to be some contention between Spain and the United Kingdom in terms of who should have possession of Gibraltar. The UK would probably not be opposed to allowing Gibraltar to be totally independent, but the treaty of Utrecht—which placed Gibraltar under British rule in 1703—states that Gibraltar will revert back to Spanish rule if it ever leaves British control. We’re assuming that, in order to nullify the treaty, Spain would have to agree. Today, Gibraltar, while a territory of the united Kingdom, is essentially self-governing.

Posted by Donald Fink in Cruising, Europe, Travel, 1 comment
Schloss Lichtenstein

Schloss Lichtenstein

On our first trip to Germany, we paid a visit to Lichtenstein Castle in southern Germany. This privately held Schloss is perched high on a white rock cliff overlooking the Echaz River and the town of Honau in the German state of Baden-Württenberg. We were so impressed with this castle that we came back a second day to get a better look of the buildings with a better sky.

Early History

The site where Lichtenstein Castle now sits has a history that goes back as far as the 4th or 5th century, but the most notable period starts around AD 1100 when another castle was located on the site. It was occupied by a group of “Ministerials” of the counts of Achalm, and later the counts of Württemberg.

Ministerials was a term referring to, in this case, knights. They were an interesting class of people in that they were not free people, but were considered to be nobility of sorts. In this case, the knights lived in the castle and were charged with defending the interests of the counts.

Since the counts were not particularly friendly with the folks over in Reutlingen, they were under frequent attack. The castle was destroyed twice, once during the imperial civil war of 1311 and once again at some point between 1377 and 1381. These ruins most likely are still there since they were locate about 500 meters away from the current buildings.

In 1390 the castle was built again, but on the site of the present day castle. This time it was regarded as the best fortified castle of the Middle Ages, and was in use until around 1567 when the then owners abandoned it. In 1802, King Frederick I of Württemberg acquired the property and dismantled the castle to the foundation and built a hunting lodge.

The present day castle was constructed around 1840 by Duke Frederick of Wurttemburg, who was inspired by the book, Lichtenstein, written in 1826 by Wilhelm Hauff, a German Poet.

According to Wikipedia, Lichtenstein in German means “Shining Stone,” but a literal translation according to Google means, “thin stone.” Whatever its true meaning, we thought the castle was worth the time it took to visit.

Touring the Castle

On the first day we were here, no tours were offered in English, so we took the German language tour. It was of course accompanied with an English written guide, and it was fun to challenge our German skills.

No photography is allowed on the inside of the castle. In many cases,gallery here this is because the property is privately owned, but in this particular case, the most likely reason is because nearly all the walls are covered with original art. And it’s not art hanging on the walls, but the actual walls are painted with artful scenes. After a few million flashes, the paint would no doubt begin to fade prematurely. Whatever the reason, we weren’t able to capture images on our tour of the castle, but you can see their .

We came back a second day just to get some images of the outside grounds because the weather was more cooperative and we had some blue skies for our backdrop.

To Get There

We were staying in Baden-Baden when we visited Lichtenstein Castle. We mentioned Baden-Baden in an earlier post, along with some pictures here.The drive was about two hours to get from one place to another, but that was part of the reason we were in Germany, to see a bit of the country. Fortunately, there are two ways to get there, so we were able to make a trip there on one road and return on another, making a full day’s loop out of the trip.

One of the things we did before our trip was to go online to Google Maps and make note of all the latitude/longitude coordinates of all the castles and other important places we planned to visit. We’re not sure if the GPS receivers and maps are less reliable in Europe than they are in the states, or if we simply didn’t understand the addressing system. Whatever the reason, it has been handy a few times to have the coordinates along to tell the GPS where we’re trying to go. And of course, we do know how to read maps, but somehow reading a map in German wasn’t nearly as easy as simply punching in a couple of coordinates to the GPS.

We’re not planning to return to Lichtenstein Castle on our upcoming trip to Germany this summer, but it’s only because we plan to be in a different part of the country, and our traveling won’t necessarily take us that far south again in the near future. Still, if we were in the area, it would certainly be on our list of places to see once more.

Posted by Donald Fink and Bonnie Fink in Blog, Europe, Travel, 0 comments
Cochem, Germany – A Gallery

Cochem, Germany – A Gallery

When we arrived in Cochem, there were probably 1,000 bikers in town, plus a compliment of other tourists from tour companies, boat excursions, and folks like us, who just drove in for the day or weekend. It apparently was a German holiday, and the Germans were out in full force.

There were bikes, boats, old cars, new cars, just about every kind of recreational vehicle you would expect to see in the US, but in German style. Bikes, for example, are overwhelmingly Harley Davidson at a typical US motorcycle rally. In Cochem, there were a few Harleys, but the bikes were a mixture of other brands. Many European brands including BMW and Triumph, but many Japanese bikes too. Continue reading →

Posted by Donald Fink in Europe, Gallery, Travel, 0 comments
Walking the Derry Wall

Walking the Derry Wall

Not long ago, we had the pleasure of taking a British Isles cruise aboard Princess Cruise line’s Caribbean Princess. One of its many stops was the Northern Ireland city of Londonderry, or simply, “Derry,” as it’s called by many of the locals. The plan for our day’s adventure was a tour of the Walls of Derry.

The city as we see it today dates back to the early 1600s’, when the walls were constructed by a consortium of livery companies from London called The Honourable The Irish Society (nope, not a typo here. That’s what it’s called), or more simply, the Irish Society. The purpose of the walls was to protect Scottish and English settlers during what was a turbulent time for northern Ireland. Londonderry actually dates back much further than the construction of the walls, to the 6th century when a monastery was established by St. Columba. He is credited for spreading Christianity throughout much of Ireland and Scotland.

Today, you can walk the city’s wall and get a great overview on much of the rich history this town has to offer. Clearly, in a European city that has been continuously inhabited since the early 7th century, there’s a lot to see and do here.

Our ship docked in Belfast which is about an hour and twenty minutes by bus away from Derry.  It took much of the day to see this city because of the travel times, but we were treated with some great views of the countryside of Northern Ireland along the way. Since we had only a day, a walk along the wall and a knowledgeable tour guide was just what we needed.

Here are a few images of our day at the Derry Wall.

Posted by Donald Fink and Bonnie Fink in Blog, Europe, Travel, 0 comments
Independence of the Seas

Independence of the Seas

Yesterday, we boarded Royal Caribbean’s Independence of the Seas in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. We’re on board for a 14 day Atlantic Crossing with a destination of Southampton, England. From there we’ll stay on board for another 14 days as we tour the Mediterranean with stops in Barcelona, Gibraltar, Rome, and a few others. We’ll post more on that later. Continue reading →

Posted by Donald Fink and Bonnie Fink in Blog, Cruising, Europe, 1 comment
Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Rothenburg over the Tauber is a medieval city in Germany, southeast of Frankfurt, and west of Nuremberg. At one time, it was the third largest city in Germany and the largest completely walled city. It dates back over 1,000  years and today is one of Germany’s treasures. The name Rothenburg ob der Tauber means “Red fortress over the Tauber”. Rot is the German word for red, referring to the red tiles on the roofs while burg refers to a fortification. Ob der means “over the”, and of course Tauber is the name of the river that runs by. Continue reading →

Posted by Donald Fink and Bonnie Fink in Blog, Europe, Featured, Travel, 1 comment